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COSTUMES
Palestine: Beit Dajan [?] or Jaffa area
Dress (djillayeh -- woman's)
late 19th to early 20th century
Plain weave; Satin weave; Applique; Embroidered; Braided; Wrapped
Metallic thread
51 1/2 in. (130 cm) length
John Dutton Wright Collection, gift of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Drumheller
TC 85.1-317
Keywords: Hand sewn; Geometric pattern; Decorative seaming; Tassels; Stripes; Stitches: alternating stem, arrowhead, back, basket edge, cross, triangular join, overcast

The djillayeh (embroidered coat-dress) is covered with cross-stitch embroidery. The predominance of the red cross-stitch on a dark indigo blue cloth is typical of Southern Palestinian costume. The large double triangles and stepped triangles of the side panels are characteristic of the Central Coast area. They represent the amulet (hejab) and cypress tree (sarou) motifs. A wave (muj) motif, also common to the Central Coast, can be seen on the back skirt panel and the front chest panel. Heavily embroidered dresses such as this one were traditionally worn as wedding gowns until the early 1970s. -- Label copy for The Elegance of Embroidery, October 11-28, 1988.

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