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COSTUMES
U.S.
Dress, evening: bodice (woman's)
1875 - 1880
Twill weave; Brocade weave; Satin weave
Silk taffeta; Silk brocade
School of Drama Collection, gift from the Phinney Family, 1951
TC 82.1-23, t1
Keywords: Stays; Floral motifs; Lined; Hand sewing; Stitches: buttonhole

The principle of distinguishing the front of the dress from the sides and back is very evident in this gown as expressed with both the diagonal brocade scarf drapery and the multi-tier pleated flounces on the tablier in relation to the tied-back, tape-controlled back overskirt. The dress is made tighter round the hips; in effect, the wearer no longer stands, as in the previous decade, in the center of a circle, but at the very front of an ellipse. The square neck cuirass basque clearly defines the era remarked that anatomical charms obtrude from the framework and the well dressed lady drags her dressmaker at her heels." The train of skirts such as this gown was popularly known as a mermaid's tail and in this example the balayeuse (dust ruffle) edging the hem all around is hand made linen lace. -- Label copy for Victorian Elegance, Penthouse Theatre, March 10-30, 1979.

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