COSTUMES
U.S.
Basque jacket for day dress (woman's)
1855 - 1860
Plain weave
Silk organdy; Silk taffeta
School of Drama Collection, gift of the Phinney Family, 1951
TC 82.1-5, t1
Keywords: Plaid; Hand sewing; Lined; Stitches: buttonhole

The bell-shaped robe is now absurd,' say the Belle Assemble in 1857. All dresses spread like fans.' All smart women cultivated the appearance of a cone standing on a very broad base. The year 1856 saw the earliest advertisement in England for the artificial crinoline (hoop).
The pagoda sleeves of the basque jacket with the essential false under sleeves - engageantes are characteristic of the period. Note: Engageantes and habit-shirt of organdy and lace are reconstructions. -- Label copy for Victorian Elegance, Penthouse Theatre, October 10 to October 30, 1979.