COSTUMES
India: Gujarat, Ahmedabad, Ahmedabad
Sari (woman's)
1957
Plain weave; Printed, hand blocked; Resist dyed, mordant resist; Resist dyed, paste resist; Painted
Cotton; Vegetable dye (indigo)
4 yds. 5 1/2 in. x 1 yd. 14 3/4 in. (3.8 x 1.29 m)
Elizabeth Bayley Willis Collection, gift of Virginia and Prentice Bloedel
TC 58.1-603

This sari was made for everyday use. The main part is dyed in indigo, the ancient dark blue dye that is ubiquitous throughout Asia, Africa and the Middle East. The pattern within it was resist-dyed by placing a paste on the fabric before dyeing so that the indigo would not penetrate those parts of the fabric. The pattern on the end of the sari was block printed by hand, each color layered separately. The bottom edge consists of the buta flower design, brought to India by the Mughal people of central Asia. A motif found in textile decoration throughout India, it was copied by European shawl designers and became known as the "paisley."

The Handblock Printing Process

Handblock printing in India is done with a succession of intricately carved wooden blocks, each carved to transfer a different color or pattern and applied in a specific order. Sometimes as many as twenty-five blocks are used for a single cloth. Indian printers are very skillful in coordinating relatively small blocks and often combine printing with painting in order to achieve unique compositions. The water in which this cloth is rinsed is important, and dye centers have been established along rivers with natural mineral properties that enhance the dyeing process. -- Label copy for Unpacking the Collection: Collecting Other Cultures: The Elizabeth Bayley Willis Collection, April 10 to May 15, 1997, October 16, 1997, to March 2, 1998, and March 4 to June 7, 1998.