COSTUMES
India: Gujarat, Kutch (Kachchh), Bhuj
Bhatia caste
Sari, gharchola (woman's)
1957
Plain weave; Supplementary weft patterning; Resist dyed, plangi; Painted
Cotton; Metallic thread
5 yds. 4 1/2 in. x 1 yd. 14 in. (4.69 x 1.27 m)
Elizabeth Bayley Willis Collection, gift of Virginia and Prentice Bloedel
TC 58.1-446

The highly prized gharchola sari is always dyed in the auspicious red color with numerous tie-dyed squares containing various motifs. Its fine cotton is delineated by woven bands of gold, each containing a repeated pattern of elephants, lotus flowers, peacocks, buta flower sprigs, and other symbols of good fortune. The gharchola sari is often worn by Gujarati Hindu brides. This piece was most likely tied in the district of Kutch and sent to the city of Jamnagar for dyeing, where it is said the water brings out the most brilliant red. Bandhani is a type of tie-dyeing that binds very fine points of cloth to make tiny dots of pattern. -- Label copy for Unpacking the Collection: Collecting Other Cultures: The Elizabeth Bayley Willis Collection, April 10 to May 15, 1997, October 16, 1997, to March 2, 1998, and March 4 to June 7, 1998.